enstein and has been since 1866, it having been overlooked in the
peace shuffle." The reason for representing Denmark, which isn't at war
with anybody, is that the Danish Minister is equally accredited to
Belgium and The Hague, and had no Secretary to leave behind when he
departed Hagueward. Of course, the American flag does not fly over the
Danish Legation here. In addition, the French and Russian interests were
also offered to Mr. Whitlock, but he was so full of responsibility that
he had to ask to be excused.

* * * * *

LOUVAIN, Nov. 5.--Louvain now presents the ghastly spectacle of a dead
city, buried under ruins, slowly coming to life again, and continues to
give full scope to the morbid streak in human nature; for sightseers
continue to flock here in increasing numbers from Antwerp, Brussels,
and, in fact, all over Belgium, excepting from over the deadline of the
operating zone. With the Bruxellois especially the trip is a favorite
outing on a pleasant Sunday. The Germans have succeeded in restoring the
train service to the extent of two passenger trains daily between here
and Brussels and one between here and Antwerp, and the military
authorities pursue a surprisingly liberal policy in giving traveling
passes to the Belgian population. In addition to those who come by
train, a steady procession of automobiles passes through all day; and
next week, when a Berlin-Brussels express service is to be started, the
local touring season will have a further boom.

About 5 per cent of the original population have come crawling back, and
the three companies of Landsturm garrisoned here, together with the
sightseers, form their source of revenue. The more courageous
shopkeepers who have come back and reopened their stores are coining
money as never in peace times--especially the little confectionery and
pastry shops, where the soldiers off duty come for afternoon coffee,
and the one tailor's shop which is open. Workmen are putting the
finishing touches to the new pine-board roof on the cathedral and are
making efforts to "restore" the stone exterior. The famous Gothic Hotel
de Ville is now protected by a high board fence, and two bearded
Landsturm men mount guard there day and night. A gang of laborers is
making headway in cleaning up the interior of the hopelessly ruined
University Library, and the streets are all cleared of debris. The
academic halls of the main university building, which s