a hill where the road dipped
down a valley into the town, we were in direct line with the German
fire, as great holes in the ground and fallen trees testified. It is a
wonder our big motor car was not an immediate mark. On the way in we
noticed a church steeple shot completely off, so after finding an inn,
where the proprietor came from the cellar and offered to guard our car
and prepare luncheon, we decided first to examine the church. The
innkeeper explained that we had come during a lull in the bombardment,
but the silent, deserted place lulled all sense of danger. The verger
showed us over the church and we were walking through the ruined nave
when suddenly we heard a sound like the shrill whistling of the wind.

"It begins again," our conductor said simply. As the speech ended we
heard a loud boom and the sound of falling masonry as a shell struck the
far end of the building. We hurried to the hotel, the shells screaming
overhead. We saw the buildings tumbling into ruins, glass falling in
fine powder and remnants of furniture hanging grotesquely from scraps of
masonry.

All my life I had wondered what would be the sensation if I ever were
under fire--would I be afraid? To my intense relief I suddenly became
fatalistic. I was under fire with a vengeance, but instead of being
afraid I kept saying to myself, "Being afraid won't help matters;
besides nothing will happen if we just keep close to the walls and away
from the middle street."

On the way we met two men in English uniform who later denounced us as
spies. We hailed them, and they replied that they had been cut off from
their regiment and were now fighting with the French. Just as luncheon
was announced eight soldiers filed into the hotel, arrested us, and
marched us before the Commandant, who saw that our papers were all
right, but suggested that on account of the dangerous position we leave
as soon as possible. We asked permission to finish our luncheon. It was
lucky that we were arrested then--before the accusation that we were
spies--for when that question arose there was no doubt in the mind of
the Commandant concerning us, so our accusers' charge merely reacted
upon themselves.

During the episode of arrest there was another lull in the bombardment,
which began again as we were seated at luncheon. All through the meal
the shells whistled and screamed overhead, and the dishes rattled
constantly on the table.

When the meal was over the proprietor c