rs as a central
decoration, bright silver, rich china, crystal glasses, decanters of
Sherry at due intervals, a French roll and an artistically folded napkin
at each plate, all that airy portion of a banquet, in short, that comes
before the first mouthful, the whole illuminated by a blaze of
artificial light, without which a dinner of made-dishes looks spectral,
and the simplest viands are the best. Printed bills-of-fare were
distributed, representing an abundant feast, no part of which appeared
on the table until called for in separate plates. I have entirely
forgotten what it was, but deem it no great matter, inasmuch as there is
a pervading commonplace and identicalness in the composition of
extensive dinners, on account of the impossibility of supplying a
hundred guests with anything particularly delicate or rare. It was
suggested to me that certain juicy old gentlemen had a private
understanding what to call for, and that it would be good policy in a
stranger to follow in their footsteps through the feast. I did not care
to do so, however, because, like Sancho Panza's dip out of Camacho's
caldron, any sort of pot-luck at such a table would be sure to suit my
purpose; so I chose a dish or two on my own judgment, and, getting
through my labors betimes, had great pleasure in seeing the Englishmen
toil onward to the end.

They drank rather copiously, too, though wisely; for I observed that
they seldom took Hock, and let the Champagne bubble slowly away out of
the goblet, solacing themselves with Sherry, but tasting it warily
before bestowing their final confidence. Their taste in wines, however,
did not seem so exquisite, and certainly was not so various, as that to
which many Americans pretend. This foppery of an intimate acquaintance
with rare vintage: does not suit a sensible Englishman, as he is very
much in earnest about his wines, and adopts one or two as his life-long
friends, seldom exchanging them for any Delilahs of a moment, and
reaping the reward of his constancy in an unimpaired stomach, and only
so much gout as he deems wholesome and desirable. Knowing well the
measure of his powers, he is not apt to fill his glass too often.
Society, indeed, would hardly tolerate habitual imprudences of that
kind, though, in my opinion, the Englishmen now upon the stage could
carry off their three bottles, at need, with as steady a gait as any of
their forefathers. It is not so very long since the three-bottle heroes
sa