to which he retired in 1755; but was mistaken [not The DELICES now at
all, but Ferney, for nine or ten years back].

"I drove to Ferney alone, after I had left M. Fritz. This House is
three or four miles from Geneva, but near the Lake. I approached it with
reverence, and a curiosity of the most minute kind. I inquired WHEN I
first trod on his domain; I had an intelligent and talkative postilion,
who answered all my questions very satisfactorily. M. de Voltaire's
estate is very large here, and he is building pretty farm-houses
upon it. He has erected on the Geneva side a quadrangular JUSTICE, or
Gallows, to show that he is the SEIGNEUR. One of his farms, or rather
manufacturing houses,--for he is establishing a manufacture upon his
estate,--was so handsome that I thought it was his chateau.

"We drove to Ferney, through a charming country, covered with corn and
vines, in view of the Lake, and Mountains of Gex, Switzerland and Savoy.
On the left hand, approaching the House, is a neat Chapel with this
inscription:--

'DEO EREXIT VOLTAIRE MDCCLXI.'

I sent to inquire, Whether a stranger might be allowed to see the House
and Gardens; and was answered in the affirmative. A servant soon came,
and conducted me into the cabinet or closet where his Master had just
been writing: this is never shown when he is at home; but having walked
out, I was allowed that privilege. From thence I passed to the
Library, which is not a very large one, but well filled. Here I found
a whole-length Figure in marble of himself, recumbent, in one of the
windows; and many curiosities in another room; a Bust of himself, made
not two years since; his Mother's picture; that of his Niece, Madam
Denis; his Brother, M. Dupuis; the Calas Family; and others. It is a
very neat and elegant House; not large, nor affectedly decorated.

"I should first have remarked, that close to the Chapel, between that
and the house, is the Theatre, which he built some years ago; where he
treated his friends with some of his own Tragedies: it is now only used
as a receptacle for wood and lumber, there having been no play acted in
it these four years. The servant told me his Master was 78 [76 gone],
but very well. 'IL TRAVAILLE,' said he, 'PENDANT DIX HEURES CHAQUE JOUR,
He studies ten hours every day; writes constantly without spectacles,
and walks out with only a domestic, often a mile or two--ET LE VOILA, LA
BAS, And see, yonder he is!'

"He was going to his workmen. M