nake was doubtless an aboma, a species of serpent of large size
and great beauty, which is not venomous. In attempting to cross the
river, it had probably been drifted down with the current, and carried
out to sea. It might have been swimming about in the waters for some
time without finding a resting-place, and, having fallen in with a
vessel at anchor, thought no harm would accrue to itself or others if it
should silently glide on board through the rudder-hole, and take up its
residence for the night. But Captain Nickerson entertained a different
opinion. He looked upon "his snakesnip" as an "ugly customer," and gave
him a reception as such.

In the course of the day on which land was discovered we reached
the mouth of Demarara River, and received a pilot on board, and a
queer-looking fellow, for a pilot I thought him. He was a negro, with
a skin dark as ebony, which shone with an exquisite polish. His costume
was simplicity itself consisting of an old straw hat, and a piece
of coarse "osnaburg" tied around the waist! But he was active and
intelligent, notwithstanding his costume and color, and carried the
brig over the bar in safety. Soon after twilight the Dolphin was snugly
anchored in smooth water in the river opposite the capital of the
province.

The next morning, at an early hour, I went on deck, anxious to
scrutinize the surrounding objects. The river was about a mile and a
half wide, the tide flowed with great rapidity, and the waters were
turbid in the extreme. The shores were lined with trees and shrubs,
presenting nothing of an attractive character. A number of vessels,
chiefly English and American, were moored in the river, engaged in
taking in or discharging cargoes; and sundry small schooners, called
"droghers," manned by blacks, nearly naked, were sailing up or down the
river, laden with produce.

The town, half concealed in the low, swampy grounds, appeared
insignificant and mean, and the wharves and landing places at the
river's side were neither picturesque nor beautiful. The architecture of
the houses, however, with porticoes, verandas, and terraces, excited my
admiration. I also saw, in the distance, palm and cocoanut trees, and
banana and plantain shrubs, with leaves six or eight feet long. These
Various objects, with the sultry stagnation of the atmosphere, and the
light and airy costume of those of the inhabitants I had seen convinced
me that I was not laboring under a dream, but was actuall