eth of its body weight (about a pint of water for a grown
animal) in a day. On hot days, when the animals are on dry feed, they
will frequently drink two quarts of water.

SHEDS.

To raise Angora goats most profitably one should really be provided with
sheds. These sheds should be about the same as those which are provided
for sheep in the same locality. For years southern and western breeders
have made a success of the Angora industry, and very few of them have
had any artificial protection for their goats. But even these breeders
find that they can raise a larger percentage of increase, and get
through the year with a smaller percentage of loss if they have sheds.
Grown goats rarely need much shelter, even in the winter, if the weather
is dry, but during cold, damp storms the fleece wets through and the
animal chills. Just after shearing, or just before kidding season, one
is liable to lose some grown animals, or to have many kids slunk, if the
goats are not protected from cold storms. Young kids also require
attention, and proper sheds more than pay for themselves by preventing
excessive mortality. Whether the shed should be closed on all sides, or
whether it may be left open, depends upon the locality. Do as one would
for sheep, under the same conditions, will be a fairly safe rule to
follow. Allow at least four or five square feet of shed room to each
mature animal, and the danger of the goats crowding together in the
corners and smothering the animals on the underside of the pile, should
never be forgotten. On very cold nights large numbers, especially of the
kids, may be killed by smothering, if they are not carefully watched.

FENCES.

The question of fencing for the Angora goat is not such a serious matter
as the beginner would imagine. If the goats have not been raised as pets
and taught to jump, there will be little trouble with the animals going
over a perpendicular fence of ordinary height. They will, however, go
through or under the fence, if it is possible. They are natural
climbers, and if the fence offers projecting steps, upon which they can
climb, they will soon find their way to the outside of the enclosure.
Some of the old stone and rail fences will not hold goats. Any
perpendicular fence, three feet high, with transverse spaces not wider
than three or four inches for the lower two feet, and not wider than six
inches for the upper foot, will hold goats. If the spaces in the fence
are perpend