sesses. This window,[44] which is much more like a door than a
window, is deeply recessed within four orders of mouldings, resting on
shafts and capitals, four on each side, all very like the door below.
Above, the whole projection is carried up higher than the battlements in
an oblong embattled belfry, having two arched openings in front and one
at the side, added in 1837 to take the place of a detached belfry which
once stood to the south of the church, and to hold some bells brought
from Thomar after that rich convent had been suppressed. (Fig. 19.)
Of the two other doorways, that at the end of the north transept, which
has a simple archway on either side, and is surmounted by an arcade of
five arches, has been altered in the early sixteenth century with good
details of the first French renaissance, while the larger doorway in the
third bay of the nave has at the same time been rebuilt as a beautiful
three-storied porch, reaching right up to the battlements. To the south
lie the cloisters, added about the end of the thirteenth century, but
now very much mutilated. They are of the usual Portuguese type of
vaulted cloister, a large arch, here pointed, enclosing two round arches
below with a circular opening above.
The central lantern--the only romanesque example surviving except that
of Lisbon Cathedral--is square, and not as there octagonal. It has two
round-headed windows on each side whose sills are but little above the
level of the flat roof--for, like almost all vaulted churches in
Portugal, the roofs are flat and paved--and is now crowned by a
picturesque dome covered with many-coloured tiles.
Somewhat older than the cathedral, but not unlike it, was the church of
Sao Christovao now destroyed, while Sao Thiago still has a west door
whose shafts are even more elaborately carved and twisted than are those
at the Se Velha.[45]
There is more than one building, such as the Templar
[Illustration: FIG. 18.
COIMBRA.
SE VELHA.]
[Illustration: FIG. 19.
COIMBRA.
WEST FRONT OF SE VELHA.]
church at Thomar, older than the cathedral of Evora, and indeed older
than the Se Velha at Coimbra; but Evora, except that its arches are
pointed instead of round, is so clearly derived directly from the Se at
Lisbon that it must be mentioned next in order.
[Sidenote: Se, Evora.]
Although the great province of Alemtejo, which reaches from the south
bank of the Tagus to within about twenty-five or thirty miles of
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