be observed in passing,
had by this time lit their cigarettes. The men were smoking Toscani,
Sellas, or Cavours, and the little boys were dancing round the table
breathing smoke from their pert nostrils.

The dinner, in fact, was over. Other relatives of the guests arrived,
and then we saw how some of the reserved dishes were to be bestowed. A
side-table was spread at the end of the gallery, and these late-comers
were regaled with plenty by their friends. Meanwhile, the big table at
which we had dined was taken to pieces and removed. The _scagliola_
floor was swept by the waiters. Musicians came streaming in and took
their places. The ladies resumed their shoes. Every one prepared to
dance.

My friend and I were now at liberty to chat with the men. He knew some
of them by sight, and claimed acquaintance with others. There was plenty
of talk about different boats, gondolas, and sandolos and topos, remarks
upon the past season, and inquiries as to chances of engagements in the
future. One young fellow told us how he had been drawn for the army, and
should be obliged to give up his trade just when he had begun to make it
answer. He had got a new gondola, and this would have to be hung up
during the years of his service. The warehousing of a boat in these
circumstances costs nearly one hundred francs a year, which is a serious
tax upon the pockets of a private in the line. Many questions were put
in turn to us, but all of the same tenor. "Had we really enjoyed the
_pranzo_? Now, really, were we amusing ourselves? And did we think the
custom of the wedding _un bel costume_?" We could give an unequivocally
hearty response to all these interrogations. The men seemed pleased.
Their interest in our enjoyment was unaffected. It is noticeable how
often the word _divertimento_ is heard upon the lips of the Italians.
They have a notion that it is the function in life of the _Signori_ to
amuse themselves.

The ball opened, and now we were much besought by the ladies. I had to
deny myself with a whole series of comical excuses. Eustace performed
his duty after a stiff English fashion--once with his pretty partner of
the _pranzo_, and once again with a fat gondolier. The band played
waltzes and polkas, chiefly upon patriotic airs--the Marcia Reale,
Garibaldi's Hymn, &c. Men danced with men, women with women, little boys
and girls together. The gallery whirled with a laughing crowd. There was
plenty of excitement and enjoyment--not