d-featured but genial and kindly,
and easily distinguished from men reared in the easy life of cities. Mr.
Bowles describes them as characterized by a broader grasp and more
intense vitality. I could not but notice, particularly, their freedom
from all the quarrels and disagreements sometimes known among travellers
in the States. The heavy revolver at every man's belt, and the miner's
proverbial love of fair play, keep in every one's mind a clear
perception of the bounds of _meum_ and _tuum_.

I must hurry over our four days' journey and its many objects of
interest. All the first day we ride through brisk Mormon villages,
prosperous in their waving cornfields and their heavy trade with the
mines. At a distance is the Great Salt Lake,--properly an inland sea,
like the Caspian and Sea of Aral,--having a large tributary, the Bear
River, and no outlet. Crossing Bear River, and the low mountains beyond,
we follow down the Portneuf Canon to Snake River, or Lewis's Fork of the
Columbia, along which and its affluents lies the rest of our journey.

Hurrying past the solitary station-houses, and over here and there a
little creek, our fourth night brings us to a low hill, which we need to
be told is a pass of the Rocky Mountains. We cross this during the
night, and morning dawns upon us in a level prairie among the network of
brooks which form the extreme sources of the Missouri. Here, more than
sixty years ago, Lewis and Clarke followed the river up to the "tiny
bright beck," so narrow that "one of the party in a fit of enthusiasm,
with a foot on each side, thanked God that he had lived to bestride the
Missouri." It is called Horse Prairie, from the circumstance that they
here bartered for horses with the Shoshonee Indians. They had often seen
the men, mounted on fleet steeds, watching them like timid antelopes at
a distance, but never allowing this distance to lessen. No signs or
proffered presents could induce a near approach. One lucky day, however,
Captain Lewis surprised a chattering bevy of their squaws and made
prisoner a belle of the tribe. Finding all effort to escape hopeless,
the woman held down her head as if ready for death. There was among them
the same effeminate fear of capture and the same heroic fortitude when
death seemed inevitable, that Clive and Hastings found in the Bengalee.
But the Captain gallantly painted her tawny cheeks with vermilion, and
dismissed her loaded with presents. It is hardly necessary t