ow that point. The Flats constitute
the most difficult and dangerous part of the whole length of the Yukon
River, summer or winter, and the section between Circle City and Fort
Yukon is the most difficult and dangerous part of the Flats. Save for a
"portage" or land trail of eighteen or twenty miles out of Circle, the
trail is on the river itself, which is split up into many channels
without salient landmarks. The current is so swift that many stretches
run open water far into the winter, and blow-holes are numerous. There
is little travel on the Flats in winter, and a snow-storm accompanied by
wind may obliterate what trail there is in an hour. The vehicle used in
the Flats is not a sled but a toboggan, and our first mistake was in not
conforming to local usage in this respect. There is always a very good
reason for local usage about snow vehicles. But a toboggan which had
been ordered from a native at Fort Yukon would be waiting for us, and
it seemed not worth while to go to the expense of buying another merely
for three days' journey.

The second mistake was in engaging a boy as guide instead of a man. He
was an attractive youth of about fourteen who had done good service at
the Circle City mission the previous winter, when our nurse-in-charge
was contending single-handed against an epidemic of diphtheria. He was a
pleasant boy, with some English, who wanted to go and professed
knowledge of the route. The greatest mistake of all was starting out
through that lonely waste with the thermometer at 52 deg. below zero. The
old-timers in Alaska have a saying that "travelling at 50 deg. below is all
right as long as it's all right." If there be a good trail, if there be
convenient stopping-places, if nothing go wrong, one may travel without
special risk and with no extraordinary discomfort at 50 deg. below zero and
a good deal lower. I have since that time made a short day's run at 62 deg.
below, and once travelled for two or three hours on a stretch at 65 deg.
below. But there is always more or less chance in travelling at low
temperatures, because a very small thing may necessitate a stop, and a
stop may turn into a serious thing. At such temperatures one must keep
going. No amount of clothing that it is possible to wear on the trail
will keep one warm while standing still. For dogs and men alike,
constant brisk motion is necessary; for dogs as well as men--even though
dogs will sleep outdoors in such cold without harm--fo