place. While this act
is performing, all Turks, heretics, and infidels are commanded to leave
the church. Numerous prayers are then offered up for the Emperor, the
Imperial family, and for a variety of objects. The most impressive part
is when the high priest prays for a blessing on the bread and wine, and
shakes the bread into the chalice. Afterwards those who intend to
partake of the sacrament are invited to come forward, and the bread and
wine together are administered in a small silver spoon, the communicants
holding their hands on their breasts, and kneeling three times. We were
very much struck with the little the congregation had to do with the
service. They had no book, they did not join in the singing, and they
could scarcely have understood what the priest said who read from the
Bible. Their only business seemed to be to cross themselves and to bow,
touching the ground with their foreheads, during the whole three hours
the affair lasted. Still the churches fill, and the people fancy, I
suppose, that they derive some benefit from what takes place. The music
is certainly very fine; it is all vocal; there are no instruments, and
no organ; and as women are not allowed to sing in churches, boys are
trained to perform their parts.

"`Altogether,' Cousin Giles says, `there is very little difference in
the main features between the ceremonies of the Greek and Romish
Churches. Both are intended to attract the senses, to please the
vulgar, and to deceive the credulous, and neither can have any effect in
changing the heart.'

"But it is time that I should bring my long letter to a conclusion.
Much of the above information was given me by a German gentleman
speaking English whom we met at Chollet's table-d'hote. I have before
said that we like the Russians; I mean the peasantry. When I spoke of
the existence of thieves in Saint Petersburg or Moscow, I do not suppose
that there are more thieves in Saint Petersburg or Moscow than in any
other of the capitals of Europe. Many of the peasants are fine-looking
men, though generally, from bad feeding, they have not the stamina of
Englishmen. Of one thing I am certain, that if one Spaniard can lick
two Portuguese, and one Englishman can lick all three, one Englishman
can lick three Russians with a big boy to help them. Still I hope that
we shall not have to go to war with them again. Poor fellows! The
Russian soldiers had not a grain of spite or ill-feeling agai