re indeed in ruin from the effects of
the Revolution. Upon entering the town, I inquired the way to the Hotel
d'Angleterre, which is kept by an Englishman of the name of Parker,
Bonaparte having specially exempted him from the edicts respecting
aliens. I had a good supper, but an indifferent bed, and the close
situation rendered the heat of the night still more oppressive. Mr.
Parker himself was absent, and had left the management with a French
young woman, who would not suffer me to write uninterrupted, and seemed
to take much offence that I did not invite her to take her seat at the
supper table. I believe I was the only male traveller in the inn; and
flattery, and even substantial gallantry, is so necessary and so natural
to French women, that they look to it as their due, and conceive
themselves injured when it is withholden.

CHAP. V.

_Boulogne--Dress of the Inhabitants--The Pier--Theatre--Caution
in the Exchange of Money--Beautiful Landscape, and
Conversation With a French Veteran--Character of Mr. Parker's
Hotel--Departure, and romantic Road--Fete Champetre
in a Village on a hill at Montreuil--Ruined Church and Convent._

I had heard so bad a report of Boulogne, as to be agreeably surprised
when I found it so little deserving it. I spent the greater part of a
day in it with much pleasure, and but that I wished to get to Paris,
should have continued longer.

Boulogne is very agreeably situated, and the views from the high grounds
on each side are delightful. The landscape from the ramparts is not to
be exceeded, but is not seen to advantage except when there is high
water in the river. There is an evident mixture of strangers and natives
amongst the inhabitants. There are many resident English, who have been
nationalized by express edict, or the construction of the law. I heard
it casually mentioned, that these were not the most respectable class of
inhabitants, though many of them are rich, and all of them are active.
The English and French women, whom I met with in the streets, were each
dressed in their peculiar fashion; the English women as they dress in
the country towns of England; the French without hats, with close caps,
and cloaks down to the feet. This fashion I found to be peculiar to
Boulogne and its promenade. The town is, upon the whole, clean, lively,
brisk, and flourishing; the houses are in good repair, and many others
were building.

I walked down to the pier, and my conclusion was