l and Secular embroideries of the past
centuries, and anyone interested in the evolution of design would be
struck with the similitude of the large leaves and flowers in these
panels to those of the crewel designs of the same date; it is also
noteworthy that the symbolic significance in the details of the panels
is ecclesiastic, whereas in the crewel work it is always based on the
legend of the Tree of Life, or secularly emblematic.

Colourings were often in both styles, blues, greens, bright yellows and
browns predominated, carnation reds figuring in some examples, used for
the flower of that name and for the pomegranate, which, with its seeds
visible, signifies future life and immortality.

The carnation and the caterpillar were both Stuart emblems, and occur in
nearly all kinds of work executed during their reigns; the rose, of
course, has its national as well as its religious significance, likewise
the oak (after the restoration).

The potato flower seen in both Jacobean and Portuguese embroideries is
an example of the habit of recording the latest novelty, the strawberry
was also popular on this account, and is frequently introduced in those
hillocky foregrounds, which, to me, appear one of the most interesting
evidences of combined influences.

Once again, another Oriental idea was evidently assimilated, for in
numberless Chinese patterns one sees the main motive springing out of a
base of waves formed exactly like the hillocks which became such a
distinctive feature in these large branching designs.

In the earliest examples the hillocks were much broken up, and smaller
(more like the mounds in the painted Palampores) than in the later work,
from which we may presume the spread of the Oriental influence had done
its work, the "terra firma" being carried out with a similitude to the
eastern version of waves that includes the actual stitchery; grafted on
to this was the legend of the pursuit of the human soul (typified by a
hart) by evil, personified by the huntsman, the hounds and various
uncanny beasts, two bearing unflattering resemblance to the heraldic
lion and leopard; while rabbits, snails, grubs of all kind hinder the
hart's progress, these are relics of the days when The Bestiarta
(symbolism of beasts) was carefully studied.

The riotous re-action from the Puritan rule was reflected in the
embroideries of the restoration, as in everything else, and patterns
became exuberant, colouring more brilliant,