gainst the sky.

"Dull green, dull brown, dull purple, and dull gray,
The hard earth white with ages of despair,
Slow-crawling, turbid streams where dead reeds sway,
Low wall of sombre mountains far away,
And sickly steam of geysers on the air."

In due time we reached Ogden, a busy-looking place. We did not leave
our car, however, for any inspection, waiting for the short run to Salt
Lake City, where we were to spend the night and the next day.

In the midst of all the car-tracks, and the many signs of commercial
activity, a capering Indian, with a blanket flung round his shoulders,
amused us by his childish glee and activity. He was in the exuberance
of his wild freedom, among all the business and anxieties which
civilization brings. What did he care for it all! He was having a good
run, and, for the fun of it, was racing with a young fellow on
horseback, and was making rather good time, too. I was interested in
this child of the past, this offspring of wild life, as without thought
or heed for anything but the present moment, he lived out his day.

In a short time we were at the city of the Mormons, seeing in the
distance, as we approached it, the spectral waters of the Great Salt
Lake.

XVIII

Salt Lake City.--The Governor of Utah.--The Zion Cooperative Store.
--Thoughts on Mormonism.--The Semi-annual Conference.--The Eisteddfod.
--The Mormon Temple.--Organ Music.--Panoramic View of Valley.--Statue
of Brigham Young.--Excursion to Saltair.--Departure from Salt Lake City.

We had a full day in Salt Lake City, altogether too short a time for
that interesting place, but we made the most of it and saw much.

We were favored with letters of introduction to Governor Wells, whom we
found in the State House, in most democratic fashion. He seemed a
perfect type of Utah, as seen at its best, cheerful and healthy,
utterly unconventional. He seemed kindly by nature, and not from mere
rules of etiquette. He received us in the office of the secretary of
state; and, in his eagerness to arrange for some pleasure for us, in
our short stay, he did not even think of asking us to be seated.

An additional carriage was soon hospitably placed at our disposal, in
the kindest manner, and in it the governor himself gave us his company.
We went first to the great Zion Cooperative Store, a huge establishment
run by a joint-stock company, all members of the Church of the
Latter-Day Saints, or Mormons,