eeble an
appearance as to excite my constant sympathy, since his place chanced to
be by my side. He assured me continually that he was not tired, though
before half of the three hours of the ascent had passed, his pale face
belied his words. He was quite ready to converse, but I could with
difficulty understand his English. We had paused at a wayside shed to
rest the horses, and offer some refreshment to the guides, when I
addressed him with,--

"What is that you are drinking? Is it goat's milk?"

"Noo, leddy," was his reply. "It is coo's;" at the same time, and with
the utmost simplicity and good will, offering me the glass from which he
had been drinking, that I might taste and judge for myself.

It is nearly nine miles to the summit, or Righi-Kulm. The bridle-path is
rocky, rough, and steep, with a grassy slope upon either side, sprinkled
at this season with dandelions, blue-bells, and odd yellow butter-cups.
Often this slope changed to a precipice, still smiling with flowers.
Upon every level spot orchards of pear trees and apricots had been
planted, while evergreens and shrubs innumerable clung to the mountain
sides, or sprang from among the rocks.

Tossed about wherever they could find a resting-place, were great
boulders of pudding-stone, overhanging the path, rising in our way, or
rolling in broken masses under the horses' feet. Sometimes, perched upon
a natural terrace, was a _chalet_, sheltered from sweep of wind or
avalanche by overhanging rocks half covered with ivy and dainty
clematis. Occasionally a beggar barred the way with outstretched hand,
or offered for sale some worthless trinket, as an excuse for asking
alms. We hugged the rocks upon one side, as other lines of tourists
wound down to meet us, upon horseback or afoot with alpenstocks to aid
their steps. Peasants, laden like beasts of burden, passed as we paused
to rest, with trunks, provisions, and even the red tiles for the new
hotel above, strapped upon their backs, or resting there on wooden
frames. They came and went; but ever present were the wonderful glimpses
of earth, and sky, and shimmering lake far down below.

At the half-way house we turn to climb a gentle slope upon the mountain
face. On either side the land spreads out smooth and green. It had been
hot below. The air strikes us here with an icy chill. A party of young
Englishmen in knickerbockers, with blue veils tied about their hats,
lean over the railing of the piazza, and scan