planted close together in the row and thinned out
the following spring if necessary. They need some shelter from the sun
the first summer. In large plots this is provided by means of a slat
covering, but in a small plot cheese-cloth tacked on strips and fastened
on corner posts is satisfactory. When a shower comes, this cheese-cloth
screen should be removed so that the rain may moisten the plot evenly.
Seedlings may be transplanted from the woods or from the forestry rows
before the leaves open out.

BUDDING

In budding, a slit like the letter T is made in the side of the young
seedling close to the ground. The bark is raised a little at the point
where the vertical slit meets the horizontal one, and a bud of desired
variety with a shield-shaped bit of bark (and perhaps a little wood)
attached to it is shoved in and the sides of the slit bound down upon
it. After the bud, or scion, has started to grow, the stock is cut off
an inch above the point where the bud was inserted. The bud then makes
rapid growth, and in two years the resulting tree is large enough to set
in its permanent place in the orchard.

CUTTINGS

Pupils in this Form should try to grow such woody plants as roses and
grapes from cuttings. Roses are frequently propagated by budding, as in
the case of apples and peaches. They may also be grown upon their own
roots or from stem cuttings. Such cuttings should be from well-matured
wood of the present year taken in the autumn and packed in moist sand
over the winter. Make the cuttings about three inches in length. The top
end should be cut off immediately above a bud and the bottom end just
below a bud, as roots seem to start more readily from a node, or bud.
Such a cutting may have three or four buds of which only the upper two
need be left. If both of these grow, the poorer one may afterwards be
removed.

These rose cuttings should then be inserted in a box of clean, moist
sand to a depth of two inches, kept in a warm room, and shaded with a
sheet of newspaper when the sun is very bright. Keep the sand moist but
not wet, and when possible have gentle bottom heat. When roots have made
some growth, transplant carefully into small flower-pots, using fairly
rich, clay loam. In a few weeks they will be ready to plant out in the
garden.

Grape cuttings should be taken late in the fall when the vines are well
matured. Such a cutting includes only two joints, the upper one being
the growing end and the lower