when the face is seen, as in meeting in the streets or elsewhere,
infinite deception occurs as to the degree of beauty. This operates so
powerfully, that a correct estimate of beauty is perhaps never formed at
first. This depends on the forms and still more on the colors of dress
in relation to the face. For this reason, it is necessary to understand
the principles according to which colors are employed at least by
skilful women.
When it is the fault of a face to contain too much yellow, then yellow
around the face is used to remove it by contrast, and to cause the red
and blue to predominate.
When it is the fault of a face to contain too much red, then red around
the face is used to remove by contrast, and to cause the yellow and blue
to predominate.
When it is the fault of a face to contain too much blue, then blue
around the face is used to remove it by contrast, and to cause the
yellow and red to predominate.
When it is the fault of a face to contain too much yellow and red, then
orange is used.
When it is the fault of a face to contain too much red and blue, then
purple is used.
When it is the fault of a face to contain too much blue and yellow, then
green is used.
It is necessary to observe that the linings of bonnets reflect their
color on the face, and transparent bonnets transmit that color, and
equally tinge it. In both these cases, the color employed is no longer
that which is placed around the face, and which acts on it by contrast,
but the opposite. As green around the face heightens a faint red in the
cheeks by contrast, so the pink lining of the bonnet aids it by
reflection.
Hence linings which reflect, are generally of the teint which is wanted
in the face; and care is then taken that these linings do not come into
the direct view of the observer, and operate prejudicially on the face
by contrast, overpowering the little color which by reflection they
should heighten. The fronts of bonnets so lined, therefore, do not widen
greatly forward, and bring their color into contrast.
When bonnets do widen, the proper contrast is used as a lining; but then
it has not a surface much adapted for reflection, otherwise it may
perform that office, and injure the complexion.
Understanding, then, the application of these colors in a general way,
it may be noticed, that fair faces are by contrast best acted on by
light colors, and dark faces by darker colors.
Dark faces are best affected by dar
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