Jumieges, the masterpiece, even in its ruins, of the grand
Norman style, and the great Norman Church of St. George de Boscherville,
to Rouen.

Everybody knows Rouen and its sights,--the Cathedral, the Church of St.
Ouen, the magnificent view of the city from St. Catherine's
Hill,--magnificent still, though much marred by the tall chimneys and
their smoke. St. Ouen is undoubtedly the perfection of Gothic art.
Unlike most of the cathedrals, it is built all in the same style and on
one plan, complete in every part, admirable in all its proportions, and
faultless in its details. But there is something disappointing in
perfection. The less perfect cathedrals suggest more to the imagination
than is realized in St. Ouen.

In the Museum is a portion of the heart of Richard Coeur-de-Lion. The
Crusader king loved the Normans, and bequeathed his heart to them. He
did not bequeath it to Imperial France. With all his faults, he was an
illustrious soldier of Christendom; and he deserves to rest, not within
the pale of this sensualist and atheist Empire, but in some land where
the spirit of religious enterprise is not yet dead.

In the outskirts is St. Gervais, the church of the monastery to which
William the Conqueror was carried, out of the noise and the feverish air
of the great city, to die, and which witnessed the strange struggle, in
his last moments, between his rapacious passions and his late-awakened
remorse. So insecure was the state of society, that, when he whose iron
hand had preserved order among his feudal nobles had expired, those
about him fled to their strongholds in expectation of a general anarchy.
Government was still only personal: law had not yet been enthroned in
the minds of men. Even the personal attendants of the Conqueror
abandoned his corpse,--a singular illustration of the theory, cherished
by lovers of the past, that the relations of master and servant were
more affectionate, and of a higher kind, in the days of chivalry than
they are in ours.

Among the workingmen of Rouen, there probably lurks a good deal of
republicanism, akin to that which exists among the workingmen of Paris.
Unfortunately it is of a kind which, though capable of spasmodic
attempts to revolutionize society by force, is little capable of
sustained constitutional effect, and which alarms and arrays against it,
not only despots, but moderate friends of liberty and progress. The
outward appearances, however, at Rouen are all in favo