of the divided
skirt or long and moderately loose knickerbockers. If, however, the
divided skirt is to be of any positive value, it must give up all idea of
'being identical in appearance with an ordinary skirt'; it must diminish
the moderate width of each of its divisions, and sacrifice its foolish
frills and flounces; the moment it imitates a dress it is lost; but let
it visibly announce itself as what it actually is, and it will go far
towards solving a real difficulty. I feel sure that there will be found
many graceful and charming girls ready to adopt a costume founded on
these principles, in spite of Mr. Wentworth Huyshe's terrible threat that
he will not propose to them as long as they wear it, for all charges of a
want of womanly character in these forms of dress are really meaningless;
every right article of apparel belongs equally to both sexes, and there
is absolutely no such thing as a definitely feminine garment. One word
of warning I should like to be allowed to give: The over-tunic should be
made full and moderately loose; it may, if desired, be shaped more or
less to the figure, but in no case should it be confined at the waist by
any straight band or belt; on the contrary, it should fall from the
shoulder to the knee, or below it, in fine curves and vertical lines,
giving more freedom and consequently more grace. Few garments are so
absolutely unbecoming as a belted tunic that reaches to the knees, a fact
which I wish some of our Rosalinds would consider when they don doublet
and hose; indeed, to the disregard of this artistic principle is due the
ugliness, the want of proportion, in the Bloomer costume, a costume which
in other respects is sensible.

MR. WHISTLER'S TEN O'CLOCK

(Pall Mall Gazette, February 21, 1885.)

Last night, at Prince's Hall, Mr. Whistler made his first public
appearance as a lecturer on art, and spoke for more than an hour with
really marvellous eloquence on the absolute uselessness of all lectures
of the kind. Mr. Whistler began his lecture with a very pretty aria on
prehistoric history, describing how in earlier times hunter and warrior
would go forth to chase and foray, while the artist sat at home making
cup and bowl for their service. Rude imitations of nature they were
first, like the gourd bottle, till the sense of beauty and form developed
and, in all its exquisite proportions, the first vase was fashioned. Then
came a higher civilisation of architecture