st-line "the danger-line." A stout sister, above all others, should
not accentuate the waist-line. She should conceal it as much as
possible. The coat back of No. 52 apparently lengthens the waist.

The same effect is produced by the arrangement of ribbons in No. 53, and
by the long-pointed basque. V-shaped effects and long-pointed basques
are as becoming to those burdened with flesh as they are unbecoming to
tall, thin women.

Long, graceful folds and draperies are admirable for the stout
sisterhood, who should avoid short sacques and tight-fitting garments
that give the on-looker an uncomfortable impression; there is too much
in a small space. Very light colors and thin textures that billow and
float should be eschewed by the large, fleshy woman who wishes to give
the impression that she possesses the lines of a finely modelled statue.
She should avoid puffs and any suggestion of the pulpy and clumsy, and
be careful not to sub-divide the body of her dress by plaits or braids
laid on horizontally across or above the bust, or below the hips.
Horizontal lines invariably decrease the height; for that reason stout
women should not wear dresses cut square in the neck, but should adhere
to the graceful V-or heart-shaped cut which has a tendency to give
length.

The rotund woman with a short waist, sketched in No. 54, may improve her
figure, as shown in No. 55, by choosing belts and collars the exact
shade of her shirt-waists in summer, and by not cutting off her height
by any sort of outside belt on winter gowns.

[Illustration: NO. 54]

[Illustration: NO. 55]

Tall, stout women should forego high heels on their shoes, high hats,
and striped dresses. Although stripes increase the effect of height,
they also add to that of breadth. A plain cloth basque and skirt of
striped material make a happy compromise and can be worn with becoming
effect by a stout woman.

[Illustration: NO. 56]

A basque cut high behind and on the shoulders apparently gives height.

A very stout woman should never wear double skirts or tunics or dresses
with large sprawling patterns, such as depicted by cut No. 56, which
suggests furniture stuffs. A large woman who had a fancy for wearing
rich brocades figured with immense floral designs was familiarly called
by her kind friends "the escaped sofa."

White, or very light colors, should never be worn by the stout; they
greatly increase the apparent size. Large plaids should also be
eschewed. S