red air of veterans and a
seeming of experience more extended than it was possible to pack into
any one human life. We stared at them, our eyes bulging out. They
painfully and evidently concealed a curiosity as to our pack-train. We
wished them good-day, in order to see to what language heaven had
fitted their extraordinary ideas as regards raiment. They inquired the
way to something or other--I think Sentinel Dome. We had just arrived,
so we did not know, but in order to show a friendly spirit we blandly
pointed out A way. It may have led to Sentinel Dome for all I know.
They departed uttering thanks in human speech.

Now this particular bunch of tourists was evidently staying at the
Glacier Point, and so was fresh. But in the course of that morning we
descended straight down a drop of, is it four thousand feet? The trail
was steep and long and without water. During the descent we passed
first and last probably twoscore of tourists, all on foot. A good half
of them were delicate women,--young, middle-aged, a few gray-haired and
evidently upwards of sixty. There were also old men, and fat men, and
men otherwise out of condition. Probably nine out of ten, counting in
the entire outfit, were utterly unaccustomed, when at home where grow
street-cars and hansoms, to even the mildest sort of exercise. They
had come into the Valley, whose floor is over four thousand feet up,
without the slightest physical preparation for the altitude. They had
submitted to the fatigue of a long and dusty stage journey. And then
they had merrily whooped it up at a gait which would have appalled
seasoned old stagers like ourselves. Those blessed lunatics seemed
positively unhappy unless they climbed up to some new point of view
every day. I have never seen such a universally tired out, frazzled,
vitally exhausted, white-faced, nervous community in my life as I did
during our four days' stay in the Valley. Then probably they go away,
and take a month to get over it, and have queer residual impressions of
the trip. I should like to know what those impressions really are.

Not but that Nature has done everything in her power to oblige them.
The things I am about to say are heresy, but I hold them true.

Yosemite is not as interesting nor as satisfying to me as some of the
other big box canons, like those of the Tehipite, the Kings in its
branches, or the Kaweah. I will admit that its waterfalls are better.
Otherwise it possess