of a
group of conical hills. The citadel overlooking the place is partially
in ruins, but was once quite a substantial and extensive fortification,
being over half a mile in circumference. Whoever selected the spot as a
stronghold could hardly have realized that it was commanded by more
than one elevation in the immediate vicinity. Where its walls are not
raised upon the edge of a precipitous cliff, it is approached by very
steep stone steps, which could only be surmounted by an enemy under a
concentrated fire from several points. The place has a deep ditch after
the style of the Valletta fortifications, but this old stronghold is
rapidly crumbling to pieces. It was a mistake to select this spot for
the capital, if for no other reason than on account of the absence of a
good water supply. At the Bay of Marsa-el-Forno, near at hand, there is
not only a good harbor, but excellent drinking-water in abundance, while
the fertile soil makes a charmingly verdant neighborhood. There are some
delightful summer residences on the shore of this bay, the resort of
citizens who come hither from Valletta in the "heated term." Only those
foreigners whose official duties compel them to do so brave the summer
heat of Malta in the capital. The naval vessels which have wintered here
disperse to their several stations at that season, and invalids return
to England or elsewhere.

Rabbato was chosen as the capital of Gozo for the same reason,
doubtless, that Madrid was made the seat of government for Spain,
because it was so nearly the exact centre of the country, while almost
every other recommendation is wanting in both instances. The same remark
applies to Citta Vecchia, the ancient capital of Malta proper. The small
city of Rabbato contains a couple of fairly good hotels, a Jesuit
college, a cathedral, and two or three convents. Without wishing to
discourage the curious traveler from doing so, we would suggest that
when he visits the capital of Gozo, he go prepared to repel an army of
mosquitoes. The neighborhood is famous for this insect pest. The guide,
native and to the manner born, remarked that they never troubled him,
but devoted their attention entirely to strangers, which affords no
consolation to the afflicted.

The visitor finds in this neighborhood some very interesting
Phoenician and Roman remains, but mostly of the former and earlier
race of colonists upon the island.

Among the antiquities is one very remarkable ruin kno