whose turn to suffer will it be
then? Will it be Portici, or either of the Torres? Who knows?--and what
dweller under Vesuvius to-day cares at this moment? "Under Vesuvius," but
it is a new Vesuvius, for the tall cone which was so conspicuous a feature
of the Bay of Naples has disappeared completely, and the summit of the
volcano has been once more reduced to the level of Monte Somma. How many
years, we wonder, will be required for the Mountain to raise for itself
once more the tall pyre of ashes that it has itself demolished and flung
on all sides to the winds? At any rate let us now look for a period of
rest, a period of prosperity to recoup the disturbed denizens of these
_paesi gia ridenti_ for their heavy losses and terrible experiences.
_Speriamo._

CHAPTER V

THE CORNICHE ROAD FROM CASTELLAMARE TO AMALFI

It is without any feelings of regret that we learn of the non-existence of
a railway line beyond Castellamare, so that our journey to Amalfi along
the coast must be performed in the good old-fashioned manner of long-past
_vetturino_ days. Three skinny horses harnessed abreast are standing ready
at the hotel door to draw our travelling chariot, each member of the team
gorgeously decked with plumes of pheasant feathers in his head-gear and
with many-coloured trappings, whilst on the harness itself appears in more
than one place the little brazen hand, which is supposed to ensure the
steed's safety from the dangers of any chance _jettatore_, the unlucky
wight endowed with the Evil Eye. Nor is the swarthy picturesque ruffian
who acts as our driver unprovided with a talisman in case of emergency,
for we observe hanging from his heavy silver watch-chain the long twisted
horn of pink coral, which is popularly supposed to catch the first baleful
glance, and to act on the principle of a lightning-conductor, in
deflecting the approaching danger from the prudent wearer of the coral
trinket. Merrily to the sound of jingling bells and the deep-chested
exhortations of our coachman do we bowl along the excellent road in the
freshness of the morning air and light "through varying scenes of beauty
ever led," for the Corniche road towards Amalfi is admitted to be one of
the finest in the world. Following the serpentine curves above the cliffs,
we have on our right hand the dazzling Mediterranean with classic capes
and islands all flushed in the early sunshine, whilst abov