eir souls
for the ludicrous, the comic, or the joyous. They were shocked by my
smiles and peals of laughter. They have a strange preference for the
minor key in music, for the dirge. No wonder when our bands would play
lively music that they were quite ready to take up the catchy airs,
but they would add a mournful cadence to the most stirring of our
American airs. After awhile I found that the music oftenest rendered
by the cathedral organ was the Aguinaldo March. I took the liberty to
inform the commanding officer and that tune was stopped. After the
surrender, to my great surprise and joy, the same organ rolled out
"America"; it did thrill me, even if it was played on a Filipino
instrument and by a Filipino.

Little boys often came with tiny birds which they had trained to do
little tricks. One had snakes which he would twist around his bare
body. And never was there a day without a cock fight. Sometimes the
birds were held in check by strings attached to them, but it was a
common occurrence to see groups of natives watching their birds fight
to the finish at any time of day, Sundays not excepted. And they will
all bet on the issue if it takes the last cent they have. They do not
seem to enjoy it in a hilarious manner at all. It is serious business,
without comment or jovial look or act. No one is so busy that he can
not stop for a cock fight.

There are many kinds of monkeys on the islands. It is common to
domesticate them, to train them to do their master's bidding; they
become a part of the family, half plaything, half servant. Parrots,
too, are adopted into the household and learn to speak its dialect;
they are almost uncanny in their chatter and they, too, do all kinds
of tricks at the bidding.

I was daily importuned to buy monkeys, parrots, cocks, or song birds. I
took a tiny bird that was never known to so much as chirp, but he grew
fond of me, would perch upon my shoulder or would turn his little
head right or left as if to ask if I were pleased with his silent
attentions. The last morning of my stay in Jaro I went to the window
and set him free but he immediately came back and clung to my hand. I
took him to Iloilo and left him with the nurses; he lived only a day.

FESTIVALS OF THE CHURCH.

CHAPTER EIGHTEEN.

According to the Spanish calendar in my possession, there is a festival
for every day in the year. There are services every morning at seven,
every evening at five; often there are