pic and span houses--I secured a most comfortable room for
myself in the house of an old widow lady; one of those charming old
world persons who are occasionally met with on life's journey, and who,
by their innate courtesy and sympathy, accentuate the oneness of the
human family. When a country is under martial law one cannot, of course,
take 'no' for an answer in applying for a billet, and therefore, in the
case of Belgium, one made the demand with the authority of 'in the
king's name,' which invariably brought about the desired result. My dear
old hostess could not do enough for me; with quavering accents she
remarked, 'Thank God you English have come, for now we feel safe.' I
must confess I felt very much of a hypocrite, for I knew that the enemy
was pursuing us in hot haste. Indeed, a few hours afterwards they
marched into the city, which they have held ever since.

As we pressed on to Ypres, via Zonnebec, our route ran alongside of the
railway, and it was a stirring sight to see the naval armoured train
dash along, seeking for a pot shot at the enemy who was not far distant,
the sailors forming the crew regarding the work as a sporting venture.

The first view of Ypres was glorious. As we marched through the great
square in front of the Cloth Hall, I was struck with the mediaeval aspect
of the place. The gabled houses carried one's imagination into the long
ago; whilst the glorious Cloth Hall of the eleventh century, backed up
by the equally fine cathedral of similar age, presented a picture not
easily to be forgotten. Alas! when I next saw it, the place was a heap
of crumbling ruins.

The Germans had passed through the city four days before we arrived; and
according to their wont, had helped themselves very liberally to what
they fancied. Many of the shopkeepers were loud in their complaints of
the shameful manner in which they had been robbed.

I was able to secure most excellent billets for the mess in the house of
Monsieur and Madame Angillis. These good people were in a state of
considerable fear, for, not only had they two sons fighting in the
Belgian army, one of whom had been wounded, but as the owners of
considerable property in the city and the neighbourhood, they were
anxious as to what the future would bring. Their worst fears have been
realized, and I am afraid they are among the great mass of sufferers in
unhappy Belgium. Their daughter was rendering splendid service in the
Belgian Red Cross, and