ish; lacking this, hot
water, salted (an ounce of salt to a quart of water), and acidulated
pleasantly with lemon juice or vinegar, is the proper medium of cooking.
The addition of a slice or two of onion and carrot, a sprig of parsley,
a stalk of celery, with aromatic herbs or spices, provided they be not
used so freely as to overpower the delicate savor of the fish, is
thought to improve the dish.

The quantity of water should be adjusted to the size of the fish; in no
case should it be larger than will suffice to produce the desired
result. At the moment the fish is immersed in the water the temperature
should be at the boiling-point, and thereafter the vessel should be
permitted to simmer during the process of cooking.

The fish may be cooked whole, or cut into small pieces, similar in shape
and size. In the latter case a wire basket is of service, as, by this
means, the fish may be easily removed from the water and drained. If the
fish is to be served whole, remove the skin and fins, and, when
thoroughly cold, mask with jelly mayonnaise or with a fancy butter.
After chilling again, the mask may be decorated with capers, olives,
eggs, etc. If the fish is to be used in flakes, the flakes will separate
more easily while the fish is still hot. In marinating fish, let the
proportions of oil and acid vary with the kind of fish; _i.e._,
according to the oily nature of the flesh.

RECIPES.

=Brook-Trout Salad.=

Dress the trout without removing the heads; boil as previously
indicated. Remove the backbone without destroying the shape of the fish.
Serve, thoroughly chilled, on crisp lettuce leaves dressed with claret
or French dressing. Prepare the latter with tarragon vinegar.

=Brook Trout Moulded in Aspic.=

Pour a little chicken aspic into a pickle or other dish of suitable
shape and size for a single fish; when nearly set, lay a trout, prepared
as above, upon the aspic, add a few spoonfuls of aspic, let it harden so
that the fish may become fixed in place, then add aspic to cover. Slices
of cucumber pickles, capers, or other ornaments, may be used. When the
aspic is thoroughly set and chilled, remove from the mould and serve on
two lettuce leaves, with any dressing desired.

=Halibut Salad.=

Flake the fish and marinate with French dressing (three tablespoonfuls
of oil, one tablespoonful of lemon juice or vinegar, a dash of salt and
pepper, for each pint of fish); drain, and add half as much boile