n
black silk, without _crepe_, and trimmed with jet, belongs to a
secondary period. Changes are made gradually through black and white
combinations, before colors are again worn.

During the period of heavy mourning, it is not proper to attend the
theatre or opera, or other gay place of amusement; nor to pay formal
visits, or attend receptions, except it may be the marriage of a near
friend, for which occasion the mourning dress is temporarily laid aside.

As a matter of respect, no invitations of a gay social character are
sent to the recently afflicted. After three months, such invitations
may be sent; of course, not with any expectation that they will be
accepted, but merely to show that, though temporarily in seclusion, the
bereaved ones are kindly remembered.

For men the etiquette of mourning is less conspicuous but equally
formal as far as it goes. The periods of wearing mourning are usually
shorter than those observed by women in similar cases, probably because
the life of business men is not confined to the social world, and its
restrictions are less binding upon them in details.

At the funeral of a near relative, a man wears black, including gloves,
and a mourning band around his hat. Subsequently he may continue to
wear black for several months, or, if this is not feasible, the
hat-band of bombazine is accounted a sufficient mark of respect. The
width of the band may be graduated, sometimes covering the surface to
within an inch of the top, sometimes being only two or three inches
wide.

As to the etiquette of men's dress in general, the tale is soon told.
The "dress-suit" is worn only at dinner and in the evening. At any
hour after six o'clock, a man may with propriety appear anywhere in a
dress suit, though it is _required_ only on formal occasions. Before
dinner, morning dress is worn--the frock coat, or a business suit with
its four-buttoned cut-away. As to the minute details of cut and
dimensions, the prevailing style of linen and ties, etc.--very
appropriately called "notions"--these things vary from season to
season. The well-dressed man will consult his tailor and furnisher.
Hats, boots, and gloves, the extremes of every perfect costume, are
important exponents of good style; and careful attention to their
choice and wearing is essential to complete and effective dressing.

PERSONAL HABITS

Neatness in personal habits is the first mark of good breeding that
strikes the observe