lin, were of a heavy impenetrable rudeness--quite
another breed than the kindly Hessians of Frankfurt.

We know the saying of a floor--that it is so clean "you could eat your
dinner off it." All the streets of Frankfurt, that I saw, were clean
like this. The system of street cars was lucid--and blessedly
noiseless!--and their conductors informed with the same adequate
gravity I have already noted.

I found that I developed a special affection for Route 19, because
this took me from the station to the opera house. But all routes took
one to and through aspects of municipal perfection at which one stared
with envy as one thought of home.

Oh, yes! Frankfurt is a name to me compact with memories--memories of
clean streets; of streets full of by-passers who could direct you when
you asked your way; of streets empty of beggars, empty of all signs of
desolate, drunken or idle poverty; of streets bordered by substantial
stone dwellings, with fragrant gardens; of excellent shops; the
streets full of prosperous movement and bustle; an absence of rags, a
presence of good stout clothes; a people of contented faces, whether
they talked or were silent--the same firm and broad contentment, like
a tree deep-rooted, in the city face that was in the country face.

These burghers, these Frankfurters, seemed to be going about their
business with a sort of solid yet placid energy, well and deliberately
aimed, that would hit the mark at once without wasting powder. It was
very different and very superior to the ill-arranged and hectic haste
of New York and Chicago; here nobody seemed driven as though by
invisible furies--the German business mind was not out of breath.

Such are my memories of Frankfurt at work. Frankfurt at leisure was to
be seen in its Palm Garden. This was the town's place of general
recreation; large, various, beautifully and intelligently planned;
with space for babies to roll in safety, and there were the babies
rolling, and their nurses; with courts for tennis, and thither I saw
adolescent Frankfurt strolling in flannels and short skirts after
business hours; with benches where sat the more elderly, taking the
air and gazing at the games or the flowers or the pleasant trees; with
paths more sequestered that wound among bowers, convenient for
sweethearts--but I did not see any, because I forbore to look. A
central building held tropic plants and basins, and large rooms for
bad weather, I suppose, with a restaurant