massive and colossal structure. The best view can be obtained from the
Rue Vivienne. From this street one has a fine view of the fine marble
steps ascending to it, and which stretch completely across the western
part.

The history of all the great panics which have been experienced on the
Paris Exchange would be an excellent history of the fortunes of France.
The slightest premonition of change is felt at once at the Bourse, and
as each successive revolution has swept over the country, it has
written its history in ineffaceable characters on Change. Panic has
followed panic, and the stocks fly up or down according to the views
outside. The breath of war sets all its interests into a trembling
condition, and an election, before now, has sent the thrill to the very
center of that grand old money-palace.

On my way home from the Bourse, I stopped to go over Galignani's Reading
Room. It is a capital collection of the best books of all countries,
some of them in French, some in English, and others in German. I found
on the shelves many American republications, but Cooper was always first
among these. For a small sum the stranger can subscribe to this library,
either for a month or a year, and supply himself with reading and the
newspapers of the world.

The Messrs. Galignani publish an English journal in Paris. It is a
daily, and has no opinions of its own. Of course, an original and
independent journal could not be allowed to exist in Paris.

For this reason _Galignani's Messenger_ is a vapid concern. It presents
no thoughts to the reader. It is interesting to the Englishman in Paris,
because it gathers English news, and presents it in the original
language. As there are always a great many Englishmen in Paris, the
journal is tolerably well supported. Then, again, the Paris shop-keepers
and hotel-owners know very well that the English are among their best
customers, and they advertise largely in it. So far as my experience has
gone, I have found the _Messenger_ quite unfair to America. It quotes
from the worst of American journals, and is sure to parade anything that
may be for the disadvantage of American reputation. It also is generally
sure of showing by its quotations its sympathy with "the powers that
be." This may all be natural enough, for it is for their interest to
stand well with the despot who rules France, but to an American, and a
republican, it excites only disgust. At present the _Messenger_ is as
good,