tae.

The country during the first day's journey presented a most barren
appearance, as rocky, yet not so picturesque as Norway, because on a
diminutive scale. We stopped to sleep at a tolerable inn in
Falckersberg, a decent little town.

The next day beeches and oaks began to grace the prospects, the sea every
now and then appearing to give them dignity. I could not avoid observing
also, that even in this part of Sweden, one of the most sterile, as I was
informed, there was more ground under cultivation than in Norway. Plains
of varied crops stretched out to a considerable extent, and sloped down
to the shore, no longer terrific. And, as far as I could judge, from
glancing my eye over the country as we drove along, agriculture was in a
more advanced state, though in the habitations a greater appearance of
poverty still remained. The cottages, indeed, often looked most
uncomfortable, but never so miserable as those I had remarked on the road
to Stromstad, and the towns were equal, if not superior, to many of the
little towns in Wales, or some I have passed through in my way from
Calais to Paris.

The inns as we advanced were not to be complained of, unless I had always
thought of England. The people were civil, and much more moderate in
their demands than the Norwegians, particularly to the westward, where
they boldly charge for what you never had, and seem to consider you, as
they do a wreck, if not as lawful prey, yet as a lucky chance, which they
ought not to neglect to seize.

The prospect of Elsineur, as we passed the Sound, was pleasant. I gave
three rix-dollars for my boat, including something to drink. I mention
the sum, because they impose on strangers.

Adieu! till I arrive at Copenhagen.

LETTER XVIII.--COPENHAGEN.

The distance from Elsineur to Copenhagen is twenty-two miles; the road is
very good, over a flat country diversified with wood, mostly beech, and
decent mansions. There appeared to be a great quantity of corn land, and
the soil looked much more fertile than it is in general so near the sea.
The rising grounds, indeed, were very few, and around Copenhagen it is a
perfect plain; of course has nothing to recommend it but cultivation, not
decorations. If I say that the houses did not disgust me, I tell you all
I remember of them, for I cannot recollect any pleasurable sensations
they excited, or that any object, produced by nature or art, took me out
of myself. The view of t