during a festival in its honor, and is called "Scouring
the White Horse."
[Illustration: {HOUSE OF A MIGRATING CITIZEN.}]
While in Berkshire I saw an odd picture, not of a
castle, but of an old English gentleman's residence,
which was truly castle-like in appearance, and which
furnishes a happy suggestion to people who do not like
to live long in any one place. It was a tun on wheels,
and it had been used by an overtaxed and indignant
democrat for the purpose of having no fixed locality,
and so to avoid assessment.
In London I made a study of the cheapest way of getting
to Paris, and of seeing the most on the journey. I found
I could take a returning produce boat at Southampton for
Lower Normandy at a trifling cost, and could go on a
produce train from Caen to Paris as inexpensively.
We took a third-class ticket to Southampton. What a
delightful ride it was! Out of the smoke of London into
the blossoming country, among landscapes of cottages and
gardens,--thatched cottages, cottages covered with old
red tiles, cottages whose gardens seemed to climb up
embankments to the roofs; past wheat fields so full of
poppies that they seemed like poppy-fields in full
bloom! I saw one field completely covered with red,
purple, yellow, and white poppies. It was an exquisitely
beautiful sight,--nothing but bright color.
The steamer we took was employed simply for the
exportation of Normandy butter, potatoes, and other farm
produce. It comes to England loaded, and goes back
empty. I obtained passage for 10 francs, and what I
saved by travel on the water I intended to make up by a
longer trip by land.
We were much tossed about by the tides of the English
Channel, but arrived safely at Cherbourg, and went by
rail immediately to Bayeux, a dreamy, ecclesiastical
city that the battles of the past seem to have left in
strange silence. I spoke at the beginning of my letter
of the activity and thrift of Lower Normandy, but Bayeux
is the stillest city I ever saw.
[Illustration: FAC-SIMILE OF THE BAYEUX TAPESTRY.]
Here, in the Public Library, we saw the famous Bayeux
Tapestry, which is displayed under a glass case; is two
hundred and fourteen feet long and contains over fifteen
hundred figures. The canvas is embroidered in woollen
thread of various colors,
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