his queer fancy be observed to
a great extent, where attempts are made to depict domestic scenes, and
the persons of either sex engaged in appropriate occupations. If such
ludicrous objects were met with anywhere else but in Cuba, they would be
called caricatures, but here they are regarded with the utmost
complacency, and innocently considered as ornamental.[46] Somehow this
is a very general passion among the humbler classes, and is observable
in the vicinity of Matanzas and Cardenas, as well as far inland, at the
small hamlets. The exterior of the town houses is generally tinted blue,
or some brown color, to protect the eyes of the inhabitants from the
powerful reflection of the ever-shining sun.

One of the most petty and annoying experiences that the traveller upon
the island is sure to meet with, is the arbitrary tax of time, trouble
and money to which he is sure to be subjected by the petty officials of
every rank in the employment of government; for, by a regular and
legalized system of arbitrary taxation upon strangers, a large revenue
is realized. Thus, the visitor is compelled to pay some five dollars for
a landing permit, and a larger sum, say seven dollars, to get away
again. If he desires to pass out of the city where he has landed, a
fresh permit and passport are required, at a further expense, though you
bring one from home signed by the Spanish consul of the port where you
embarked, and have already been adjudged by the local authorities.
Besides all this, you are watched, and your simplest movements noted
down and reported daily to the captain of police, who takes the liberty
of stopping and examining all your newspapers, few of which are ever
permitted to be delivered to their address; and, if you are thought to
be a suspicious person, your letters, like your papers, are
unhesitatingly devoted to "government purposes."

An evidence of the jealous care which is exercised to prevent strangers
from carrying away any information in detail relative to the island,
was evinced to the writer in a tangible form on one occasion in the
Paseo de Isabella. A young French artist had opened his portfolio, and
was sketching one of the prominent statues that grace the spot, when an
officer stepped up to him, and, taking possession of his pencil and
other materials, conducted him at once before some city official within
the walls of Havana. Here he was informed that he could not be allowed
to sketch even a tree withou