nutes of the proceedings of meetings, and transact the business
of correspondence. The domestic servants are placed under the immediate
direction of the steward; but above all in the choice of a cook, the
discretion of the committee is most especially exerted. A house being
thus established where the society is at home, the rooms are thrown open
for their various accommodation. In the apartments destined for eating,
members may breakfast, lunch, dine, and sup, as they list; a bill of
fare of great variety is prepared; and the gourmand has nothing more to
do than to study its contents, and write the names of the dishes he
desires on a bill prepared for the purpose; to mention whether he orders
dinner for himself alone, or in company with others; and at what time he
chooses to dine, whether immediately, or at some subsequent hour. At the
close of his dinner this bill or demand is presented to him with the
prices annexed, and prompt payment is the law.

Wine is bottled in quarts, pints, and even half-pints, and may be had at
some institutions even in glasses: it is not needless to observe,
moreover, that there is no necessity either of fashion or regulation to
drink it at all. At an inn, a bottle of wine must be ordered for the
"good of the house," that the waiter may not despise you and be surly:
that, in short, the guest may be tolerably accommodated in other
matters; although, perhaps, the wine itself (wretched stuff generally at
inns) is his abhorrence--though he may never drink any thing but water,
and may send the decanter away untouched--the tax must be paid. Besides
this entertainment for the grosser senses, the more refined appetites
are considered. In some clubs, the "Travellers" for instance, a library
is provided; and at most of them, even the most unintellectual, a
library of reference is supplied. Here all the periodicals of the day
are laid upon the tables--both those of Great Britain and of the
continent, together with the newspapers, metropolitan and provincial,
and in some instances the political journals of Paris. This part of the
house may be considered the general resort of the gossippers and
quidnuncs; and here, or in other more commodious places, materials for
writing, paper, pens, lights, &c. are found. Drawing-rooms, one or more,
are next to be mentioned--here the members take their tea or their ease;
and where cards are played, this is the scene of operation. A
billiard-room is an agreeable additio