they are "as good gentlemen
as the king, only not so rich." Proud and independent, and jealous of
any encroachment upon their rights, they are yet scrupulously polite to
others, and pay marked attention to strangers. While in Italy the
foreigner will meet with imposition at every step, the Spaniard disdains
to take advantage of his ignorance, and the significant reply, "Senor, I
am a Spaniard," is sufficient answer to any suspicion of meanness or
duplicity. Their tall, manly forms, wrapped in the ample cloak which the
Spaniard wears with unequalled grace, their oval faces, dark
complexions, and flashing eyes, make them most interesting features in
the landscape. Probably in no country does man, in the humbler walks of
life, appear so universally clothed with the majesty suitable to his
rank as lord of the creation, as he does in Spain. As they travelled
through Castile, the scene was occasionally varied by meeting a band of
strolling Gitanas, or Gipsies, whose swarthy hue, slender forms, and
wild appearance, clearly pointed out their foreign origin; of course,
they were anxious to tell the fortunes of the beautiful Senoritas, and
on one occasion their father consented to gratify their curiosity. But
he repented of his compliance, when he heard the woman predict to the
timid and somewhat superstitious Magdalena, a speedy and imminent danger
as about to befall her, and he noticed with concern the changing color
with which she heard these hints of peril: but Clara, whose fearless and
joyful spirit could not be daunted by such prophecies, soon laughed the
roses back again into her sister's cheeks, and made the wrinkled hag
retreat, full of rage at her incredulity. They also met some of those
immense flocks of sheep, which form such an important item in the
national wealth of Spain, and which are led southward early in the
autumn, to enjoy the rich pasture grounds of Estremadura and Andalusia.

As they proceeded towards the north, the country became more rugged and
mountainous, and changes in the costume of the peasantry showed that
they had passed into another province: the black velvet cap of the
Castilian, ever worn so as to display to advantage his noble, lofty
forehead, was replaced by one of woollen material, of a brilliant red,
long, and hanging down behind. The scenery every moment became more
grand and sublime, and the young girls, who had spent their lives
chiefly in Madrid, were full of delight and admiration. "How