support. Then a crow's-foot, or tripod of iron, tapped and
threaded for iron pipe, is screwed to the terminal block. The iron
pipe of the chandelier or wall bracket is then screwed home in this
crow's-foot.

Do not begin stringing wires until all the moulding of the circuit has
been laid. Then thread the wires through the wall or floor tubes and
lay them in their respective slots. If trouble be found making them
stay in place before the capping is put on, small tacks may be driven
into the moulding beside them to hold them. When a terminal block is
reached, a loop is made of each wire, through the hole cut in the
block, if the circuit is to continue in the same direction. If it is
to end there, the two wires are drawn through taut, and cut off at a
length of 5 or 6 inches. These end wires, or loops, are then scraped
bare and spliced to the two wires coming out of the chandelier or
wall bracket. This joint is then soldered and covered with tape, and
the shell of the chandelier is screwed into place, covering the joint.

[Illustration: Detail of wooden moulding]

If the moulding is run along the walls flush with the ceiling, as is
usual, a branch is made for a wall light, or wall tap, by means of a
porcelain "T," or branch-block, which provides the means for running
the circuit at right angles to itself without letting the wires come
in contact with each other where they cross. Separable current taps
should be installed in handy places on all circuits, so that small
heating devices may be used without removing the lamps from their
sockets. The two wires are bared for half an inch where they run
through these current taps, and are fastened by means of brass screws.

_"Multiple" Connections_

All electric devices for this installation--lamps, irons, vacuum
cleaners, motors--must be connected _across_ the circuit--that is,
bridged, from one wire to the other. This is called _multiple_, or
shunt connection. There is only one exception to it, in wiring the
house. That one exception is installing a wall switch, the ordinary
snap switch. Since this wall switch, is, in effect, merely an
instrument, which opens or closes a circuit, it should be connected to
only one wire, which is cut to provide two ends for the screw
connections in the switch. When a moulding branch is run down from the
ceiling to some convenient spot for a snap switch (with which to turn
the lights of a room on or off), a porcelain "T" is not used. All th