they are soon covered with dust, and
liable at any moment to--first, the attacks of meat flies, and next of
moths and beetles.

Good insect powder is, as I have before pointed out, a deterrent;
still, to make assurance doubly sure, I would always, in the case of
valuable specimens, enclose them in square cages, made one side of
glass, and the three other sides and top of fine meshed muslin,
wirework, or perforated zinc, the latter sufficiently fine not to
allow small moths and flies to creep in. These can be made of various
sizes, can be varied by having a top and back of wood, can have the
front to open like a meat safe with shelves, or be simply cases to
lift over the specimens like shades; in any case, however, the front
glass allows you to see how all is going on, and the wire sides permit
a free current of air to pass through to dry the specimens.

In this manner I have been enabled to laugh at the little wretches of
insects buzzing around, and flattening their noses against the zinc,
in vain endeavours to interview some charming specimens of young
birds, whose "fluffy" plumage they delight in. Like the cats, they are
"so fond of noticing those dear little birds!"

Skins not in constant use for reference should, when dried, be wrapped
in soft paper amidst insect powder, and put away in closely fitting
drawers. "Paper fasteners" are very useful to clip the ends of the
paper--folded over--which encloses them.

AQUARIA.--This being a subject a little outside my province, I do not
purpose dwelling on it, further than to say that all information will
be found in "The Aquarium, its History, Structure, and Management," by
Dr. J. E. Taylor, F.L.S, etc.; Gosse's "Handbook of the Marine
Aquarium," and many others. Two recipes, culled from the Scientific
American, 1879, may be of service, however: "Cheap tanks can be made
of wood and glass, the frame and bottom being of wood, and sides of
glass. In order to make the joints watertight, care must be taken to
get a proper aquarium putty or cement. The following is a good recipe:
Put an egg-cupful of oil and 4 oz. tar to 1 lb. resin, melt over a
gentle fire, test it to see if it has the proper consistency when
cooled; if it has not, heat longer, or add more resin or tar. Pour the
cement into the angles in a heated state, but not boiling hot, as it
would crack the glass. The cement will be firm in a few minutes. Then
tip the aquarium in a different position, and treat a second