ry.
Under the present government they live happy and contented lives among
the lovely valleys of their ancestors. Their huts are generally built
of stone and covered with red tiles, creepers being trained to trail
over the walls, over which often a huge pumpkin is seen to hang, while a
prickly cactus stands as a sentinel at the doorway. The dress of the
men is a serge coat of an emerald green colour, without a collar, and
with a short skirt; loose black breeches, open at the knee, after the
Spanish fashion; and a long red waistcoat with large pockets. Pieces of
llamas' hide fastened round the feet serve them for shoes, while their
legs are stockingless. On their heads they wear broad-brimmed hats or
caps, adorned with gold-lace or ribbons of gay colours. The women wear
the same hat as the men, with a mantle over the shoulder secured in
front by a silver pin; a red bodice, and a blue petticoat reaching a
little below the knee. Altogether they present a very picturesque
appearance. We made another very interesting excursion in a canal up a
river--or a stream rather, for it was very narrow--but what we were most
struck with was the richness of the vegetation, the bark, reeds, and
trees, and shrubs of all sorts which grew close to the water. What was
remarkable were the palm-trees, which shot up above the other trees--
themselves of no inconsiderable growth. We were sorry not to be able to
spend a longer time on the river. It put us very much in mind of the
scenery of the Amazon. We saw enough of the country to make us long to
see more of it, but were obliged to hurry back to the railway-station to
get to Callao, once more to embark on board the _Triton_.

It was night by the time we reached the harbour, the sea calm as glass;
and it struck me that there was something peculiarly solemn as we looked
out on that dark, silent expanse of water, after gazing as we had done
for some days on the lofty snow-capped Cordilleras, and the laughing
green valleys round Lima. Dark as was the water, no sooner were the
oars dipped in it than it appeared as if they were ladling up some
red-hot fluid metal; and as the boat which was sent to take us off
pulled toward us from the ship, she left a long line of fire in her
wake. Even when we scooped up the water in our hands and threw it into
the air, it appeared like sparkles of fire, so long did it retain its
brilliancy. The slightest movement in the water caused a flash of
light.