elbowed in
every direction by the busy Marseillois, whose curiosity is too much
deadened by continual importations, to be excited by the newest or
strangest costume. In short, the memorable political masquerade which
was got up so awkwardly by Anacharsis Clootz and his friends from the
Fauxbourg St. Antoine, might here be represented almost every day in the
week by real and genuine actors, in every possible variety.

May 24.--I cannot say much for the old cathedral; and as far as I can
collect from the conversation of a scientific Englishman, who has dropt
his watch into one of the boiling vats, while minuting some process, the
great soap manufactory of this place offers nothing very different from
other places of the same sort. Our morning's walk was therefore confined
principally to the Cours, the shade of whose spreading trees, and the
profusion of fine bouquets and cheerful faces in the flower-market at
one end of it, render it a most agreeable promenade. The pleasure of
lounging, which in the spirit-stirring climate, and among the busy faces
of England is the offspring of conceit, becomes in such places as this,
and to an unoccupied person, a real and physical satisfaction, and we
much preferred it to the lions of Marseilles, which are not many. In the
evening we explored the western side of the bay, and the low reef of
rocks opposite to the Lazaretto, which may someday or other be known by
the name of Alfieri's[50] seat, as he has described it in his life with
sufficient accuracy to mark the spot. It commands one of the best and
most cheerful views of Marseilles, including several features of the
prospect afforded from the Viste, but of course on a lower elevation.

[Footnote 50: Vide Cooke's Views.]

CHAP. XI.

OLLIOULES--TOULON.

MAY 23.--From Marseilles to Cujes twenty-four miles. From the views
which we had from the Viste and Notre Dame de la Garde, we were prepared
to expect much from the nearer acquaintance with the environs of
Marseilles, which the first seven or eight miles would afford us. In
this case, however, as in Campbell's mountain,

"'Twas distance lent enchantment to the View;"

for that which as a distant whole presented a scene of the highest
beauty, and the richest cultivation, was nothing better in detail than a
drive between stone walls. I have always thought that the ostentation of
riches, or of those things which they will procure, was not a subject of
vanity so common in F