n version
of it: and observed that, for the more perfect execution of the one now
before the public, he had prepared himself by a diligent perusal of the
texts of the purer Latin historians. We had now entered the town, and it
was with regret that I was compelled to break off such interesting
conversation. In spite of the lateness of the hour (ten o'clock) and the
darkness of the evening, the worthy old Grecian would not suffer me to
accompany him home--although the route to his house was devious, and in
part precipitously steep, and the Professor's sight was not remarkably
good. When we parted, it was agreed that I should breakfast with him on the
morrow, at eight o'clock, as we intended to quit Baden at nine.
The next morning, I was true to the hour. The Professor's coffee, bread,
butter, and eggs were excellent. Having requested our valet to settle every
thing at the inn, and bring the carriage and horses to the door of M.
Schweighaeuser by nine o'clock, I took a hearty leave of our amiable and
venerable host, accompanied with mutual regrets at the shortness of the
visit--and with a resolution to cultivate an acquaintance so heartily
began. As we got into the carriage, I held up his portrait which Mr. Lewis
had taken,[2] and told him "he would be neither out of _sight_ nor out of
_mind_" He smiled graciously--waved his right hand from the balcony upon
which he stood--and by half-past nine we found the town of Baden in our
rear. I must say that I never left a place, which had so many attractions,
with keener regret, and a more fixed determination to revisit it. That
"revisit" may possibly never arise; but I recommend all English travellers
to spend a week, at the least, at Baden--called emphatically,
_Baden-Baden_. The young may be gratified by the endless amusements of
society, in many of its most polished forms. The old may be delighted by
the contemplation of nature in one of her most picturesque aspects, as well
as invigorated by the waters which gush in boiling streams from her rocky
soil.
I shall not detain you a minute upon the road from Baden to this place;
although we were nearly twenty-four hours so detained. _Rastadt_ and
_Karlsruhe_ are the only towns worth mentioning in the route. The former is
chiefly distinguished for its huge and tasteless castle or palace--a sort
of Versailles in miniature; and the latter is singularly pleasing to an
Englishman's eye, from the trim and neat appearance of the houses,
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