on: GRANVILLE CHANNEL, ALASKA. Reached via the Union Pacific
Ry.]

The squaws, if they were in mourning or in love, would have their faces
painted black with oil and tar. Then again, a great many wear a wooden or
ivory pin thrust through the lip just below the fleshy part. It is worn
for ornament, the same as ear-rings or nose-rings, and is called a
labret. The missionary work done among them is a commendable one, but it
seems a hopeless task. Their houses are always built with one object in
view, to be able to tie the canoe to the front door. A long row of huts
just above high-tide line can always be safely called a rancherie in that
country. Their food is brought by the tide to their very doors, and the
timbered mountains abound in wild game, and offer ample fuel for the
cutting.

Chilcot, or Pyramid Harbor, is about twelve hours run from Juneau, and it
is here the famous Chilcot blanket is made from the goat's wool, woven by
hand, and dyed by native dyes, and worked from grotesque patterns. Here,
also, are two of the largest salmon canneries in Alaska, and here,
indeed, were we in the

LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

The hours passed quickly by as the supposed night wore away. At midnight
the twilight was so bright that one could read a newspaper easily. Then
the moon shone in the clear sky with all regal splendor until 3.30 in the
morning, when old Sol again put in his claims for admission. He lifted his
golden head above the snowy peaks, and spirited away the uncertain light
of unfolding dawn by drawing the curtains of the purpling east, and
sending floods of radiance upon the entire world. It was a sight never to
be forgotten, if seen but once in a lifetime.

Onward once again when the tide was in, and our next awakening was on the
grand glacier fields. The greatest sight of the entire trip, or of any
other in America, now opened out before many eager eyes. For several
days, icebergs had been seen sailing along on the smooth surface from the
great glaciers, and speeding to the southern seas like phantom ships. As
the ship neared the bay, these huge bergs increased in size and number,
with such grotesque and weird shapes, that the mind is absorbed in
shaping turrets, ghosts, goblins, and the like, each moment developing
more and more of things unearthly, until the heart and eyes seem bursting
with the strain, when suddenly a great roar, like the shock of an
explosion of giant powder, turns the eyes to the parent gl