eh mountains; the former an extinct
volcanic cone about 10,000 feet high, the latter an active crater on a
lower portion of the same mountain range. Tchipanas, about four miles
over the Megamendong Pass, is at the foot of the mountain. A small
country house for the Governor-General and a branch of the Botanic
Gardens are situated here, the keeper of which accommodated me with a
bed for a night. There are many beautiful trees and shrubs planted
here, and large quantities of European vegetables are grown for the
Governor-General's table. By the side of a little torrent that bordered
the garden, quantities of orchids were cultivated, attached to the
trunks of trees, or suspended from the branches, forming an interesting
open air orchid-house. As I intended to stay two or three nights on the
mountain, I engaged two coolies to carry my baggage, and with my two
hunters we started early the next morning.

The first mile was over open country, which brought us to the forest
that covers the whole mountain from a height of about 5,000 feet. The
next mile or two was a tolerably steep ascent through a grand virgin
forest, the trees being of great size, and the undergrowth consisting of
fine herbaceous plants, tree-ferns, and shrubby vegetation. I was struck
by the immense number of ferns that grew by the side of the road. Their
variety seemed endless, and I was continually stopping to admire some
new and interesting forms. I could now well understand what I had
been told by the gardener, that 300 species had been found on this
one mountain. A little before noon we reached the small plateau of
Tjiburong, at the foot of the steeper part of the mountain, where there
is a plank-house for the accommodation of travellers. Close by is a
picturesque waterfall and a curious cavern, which I had not time to
explore. Continuing our ascent the road became narrow, rugged and steep,
winding zigzag up the cone, which is covered with irregular masses of
rock, and overgrown with a dense luxuriant but less lofty vegetation.
We passed a torrent of water which is not much lower than the boiling
point, and has a most singular appearance as it foams over its rugged
bed, sending up clouds of steam, and often concealed by the overhanging
herbage of ferns and lycopodia, which here thrive with more luxuriance
than elsewhere.

At about 7,500 feet we came to another hut of open bamboos, at a place
called Kandang Badak, or "Rhinoceros-field," which we were goi