way to the ancient
head-quarters of Wesleyanism--the fine old chapel which, it is to be
hoped, will not be improved off the face of the earth, in the City Road.
It was an unpleasant night to tear one's self away from one's study fire
or the friendly circle. The rain was heavy, the streets were a mass of
mud, and the melancholy lamps, which are the disgrace of such a
metropolis as London, did little more than make the darkness visible.
Over all the City a Stygian gloom prevailed, except where the light
blazed forth from the gin-palaces, which seemed, as I passed, to be doing
a roaring trade, and to be filled with sots but too happy to find an
excuse for the glass. Occasionally also a cigar shop threw out a little
ray of light on the pavement and across the street, and now and then from
an upper window the lamps gleamed, and you heard the click of billiards.
So still was the traffic that even the beggars had gone home. Here and
there an omnibus, here and there a cab crawling for the last time, for
the new Act was to come into operation the next day--here and there a
policeman, here and there a belated clerk, here and there an
unfortunate--such were all you saw as you paced along the deserted City
that night. You could almost fancy its inhabitants had fled as if an
enemy were on its way, or as if the plague ran riot in its streets. A
little after ten the scene began to change. Doors were opened by heads
of families doubtful as to the state of the weather. Up area steps
creeped ancient males and females to do what they had done years and
years before. Children, young men and women, fathers and mothers,
masters and servants, got out into the streets. I followed them, and was
soon seated in the chapel in the City Road. All round me were monuments
of Wesleyan worthies. It were a task too long to describe their virtues
or record their memories here. Up in that pulpit Wesley preached, and
there the imprint of his genius yet survives. It is hard to realize what
a power Wesleyanism is. I did not expect to see many; in reality the
commodious chapel was well filled. The service began at half-past ten,
but it was not till long past that hour that the congregation had
entirely assembled. It seemed to me this was a great mistake. For half
an hour or so the opening and shutting of doors and the entrance of
hearers interfered much with the comfort of those who had already come.
Under these circumstances the service was try