The roller takes as much tea as he can cover with both his hands, and
places it on the mat in a sort of ball. He keeps the leaves closely
together, and rolls them from right to left; this motion gives each leaf
a twist on itself, and rolls it so firmly that it retains the shape when
dry. This part of the work requires peculiar dexterity, and can only be
performed successfully after long practice. When a man becomes skillful
in it, he can roll the tea with wonderful rapidity; and when his work is
done, every leaf will be found separate from the others, and twisted as
though it had been passed through a machine.

"The work of rolling the tea is very tiresome, and so the men sometimes
perform it with their feet when they wish to give their hands a rest. We
saw one man at his occupation in this way, and he certainly seemed to
enjoy it.

"After they have been properly rolled, the leaves are spread on trays,
and exposed to the sun and air for several hours, and then they are once
more roasted. The second roasting is milder than the first, and is done
over a slower fire; and afterward the leaves are rolled again, to make
sure that none of them have become spread out. For the black tea the
roasting is done in a shallow pan, the same as the first; but the green
teas are put in a deep pan, and subjected to a very high heat.

"While the green tea is being roasted there must be a great deal of care
on the part of everybody concerned. The pan is nearly red-hot when the
tea is put into it, about a pound at a time, and the operator in charge
keeps it in rapid motion. One boy tends the fire, while another stands
by with a fan to prevent the burning of the tea.

"After their final roasting the teas are put in a long basket, shaped
like an hour-glass, and having a sieve in the centre. This basket is
placed over a charcoal fire and submitted to the heat for several
minutes, when the tea is poured out and receives another rolling. This
operation is repeated several times, till the tea is thoroughly tired of
it, and also thoroughly dry. Then it is passed through sieves, to
separate the different qualities from each other; and finally it is
winnowed, to remove all the dust and dirt. Then it is 'fired,' or dried,
once more, to drive away the last particle of moisture; and in this
condition it is ready to go into the chests in which it is carried to
the lands where it is to be used."

[Begun in No. 31 of HARPER'S YOUNG PEOPLE, June 1