convulsion of Nature, tower up in colossal majesty on
either side. Splendid waterfalls flash down in foam and thunder,
scoring deep channels in the perpendicular heights, and bathing
thickets of tree-fern and maidenhair in pearly spray. A wild river
swirls through the deep ravine, opening towards the ethereal blue of
clustering peaks, which lie fold upon fold in the hazy distance of the
Native States, and disclose a mystic pathway into dreamland.

Another deep gully of yellow tufa-rock behind Fort de Kock, forms the
first stage of the romantic route to Lake Manindjoe. Crossing the twin
rivers which have carved their winding gorge in the bosom of the hills,
the rude track through the mountains ascends to smooth plateaux forming
a flight of gigantic stairs, supported by rocky girders like natural
cross-beams. In early days of Dutch colonisation these successive
points of vantage, occupied by hostile tribes, were stormed in vain by
the invading army, and eventually only captured by surprise. The beauty
of upland Sumatra culminates at this mountain lake, lying within the
foundered crater of the Danau. The volcanic walls rise fourteen hundred
feet above the dark blue mere, a glitting sheet of _lapis lazuli_ set
within the black cleft of the profound chasm. Brown and purple rocks
enamelled with orange lichen, and garlanded with waving verdure, open
to display a mysterious vision of the glistening sea, with one white
sail like a butterfly's wing, crossing the distant waves. The flushing
rose-tints of a tropical sunset glorify the landscape into transcendent
beauty; the rude sculpture of the river crags, the black shadows of
primeval forest, and the far-off gleam of the Indian Ocean, composing
an ideal picture, enhanced by vague impressions of Infinity and
Eternity.

The great Lake of Sinkarah, flanked by volcanic ridges, and by the
dense foliage of palm forests and coffee plantations, also presents a
succession of entrancing landscapes. White and purple orchids wreathe
the forest trees, troops of red monkeys chatter among the boughs, and
woodland vistas reveal leagues of emerald rice and golden millet.
Beyond Sinkarah lies the famous coal district of the island, where
Chinamen, convicts, and Hindu coolies, in perpetual bustle and
commotion, manifest an activity unique in the thinly-populated
interior of Sumatra, dependent on the labour of alien races. Javanese
act as woodmen, gardeners, and road-makers; the Klings serve as