about from
place to place, mostly drunk, or seeking to become so as quickly as
possible: with each party of the natives I observed a negro-man, the
slave of some one present, but commonly well dressed in the European
manner, having an air of superior intelligence to his masters, and
evidently exercising over them the power and influence derived from
superior knowledge: the negroes, in fact, appeared the masters, and the
red-men the slaves.

Along the river-front of the town, a situation wildly beautiful, I
observed several dwellings of mansion-like proportions, and others of a
similar character in progress. I should say, that nowhere in this South
country have I yet seen a place which promises more of the prosperity
increasing wealth can bestow than this; or one that, from all I learned,
is more wanting in all that men usually consider most worth
possessing,--personal security, reasonable comfort, and well-executed
law. In place of these, affrays ending in blood are said to be frequent,
apprehensions few, acquittal next to certain even in the event of trial,
and the execution of a white man a thing unknown.

In the midst of all this, be it understood, I do not consider that a
traveller runs the least risk; robbery, or murder for the sake of mere
plunder, never occurs; and to a stranger the rudest of these frontier
spirits are usually exceedingly civil; but idleness, hot blood, and
frequent stimulants make gambling or politics ready subjects for
quarrels, and, as the parties always go armed, an affray is commonly
fatal to some of those concerned.

As the population steadily advances, these wild spirits melt away before
it, some becoming good citizens, others clearing out before the onward
march of civilization: their sway is therefore yearly decreasing in
force within the States, their sphere becoming limited in proportion as
persons interested in the support of law increase; already, each season,
numbers seek freedom from restraint within the Mexican territory, where
an infusion of such blood will be productive of strange events in Texas;
and if this fine territory be not, within a very short period, rendered
over-hot a berth for its Mexican proprietors, "coming events cast their
shadows before" to very little purpose.

TRAVELLING THROUGH THE CREEK-NATION.

THE ALABAMA RIVER DOWN TO MOBILE.

A little before midnight, my two New York _compagnons du voyage_ and
myself took our seats in the mail for Montgo