to the surface. Their real utility is questionable.

When the liquid begins to simmer slightly, and just before it fairly
boils, all the scum is removed by means of a long-handled skimmer, and
is emptied into the pan with the "settlings," and both these are
afterwards utilized in the manufacture of vinegar.

After boiling for a while, the syrup begins to thicken, and the bubbles
to rise higher and higher in the pan, like boiling soap. Thenceforward
it must be watched with care, to prevent its boiling over, or burning on
the bottom of the pan.

As soon as the sugar begins to show signs of graining, all hands pass up
their saucers to be filled; and they are refilled an unlimited number of
times, until all are thoroughly sweetened. For though sugar is the
product of hard labor, and has a cash value, yet in all the sugar-camps
it is as free almost as water throughout the season,--until it is
grained and in the tubs, when it becomes property, and is held sacred.

Not many, however, can eat more than one, or at most two, saucerfuls of
warm sugar. So, when the appetite is sated with this, and the sugar is
done a little harder, merry voices call for pans of snow, or if a clean
snow-bank is at hand, betake themselves to this instead, and, after
having partially cooled the liquid by stirring it in the saucer, pour it
slowly out upon the smooth snow-crust, where it quickly hardens and
becomes brittle, making a most luscious and toothsome substitute for
molasses candy.

If the sugar is to be made into cakes it requires to be boiled longer
than if intended for graining in tubs, as is the more common form.

Finally, when frequent trials show that the proper degree of
concentration has been reached, the master of the ceremonies pronounces
it "done," pulls off the fagots, and lets the fire go down, or else
draws the pan off the arch and lets it cool. Then the sugar is stirred
vigorously with a huge wooden paddle until it begins to grain, when it
is poured out into the tubs, or dipped into tins, if intended for cakes.

But though the sugar is eaten, the party is not over for the young
folks. There is still time for an hour or two of coasting--an
old-fashioned tournament of "sliding down hill." And so the livelong day
is a time for sweet things said and done as well as eaten, of romping
and frolicking, of mirth and laughter, of youthful courtships begun and
carried on, of joy and gladness everywhere.

EDITORIAL NOTE ON DANI