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er human society ceased to be all alike as to occupation, diversion and interest. In the world of caste, costume has gradually evolved until it aims through appropriateness, at assisting woman to fulfil her role. With peasants who know only the traditional costume of their province, the task must often be done in spite of the costume, which is picturesque or grotesque, inconvenient, even impossible; but long may it linger to divert the eye! Russia, Germany, France, Spain, Italy, Poland, Scandinavia,--all have an endless variety of costumes, rich in souvenirs of folk history, rainbows of colour and bizarre in line, but it is costuming the woman of fashion which claims our attention. The succeeding chapters will treat of woman, the vital spark which gives meaning to any setting--indoors, out of doors, at the opera, in the ball-room, on the ice--where you will. Each chapter has to do with modern woman and the historical paragraphs are given primarily to shed light upon her costume. It is shown that woman's decorative appearance affects her psychology, and that woman's psychology affects her decorative appearance. Some chapters may, at first glance, seem irrelevant, but those who have seriously studied any art, and then undertaken to tell its story briefly in simple, direct language, with the hope of quickly putting audience or reader in touch with the vital links in the chain of evidence, will understand the author's claim that no detour which illustrates the subject can in justice be termed irrelevant. In the detours often lie invaluable data, for one with a mind for research--whether author or reader. This is especially true in connection with our present task, which involves unravelling some of the threads from the tangled skein of religion, dancing, music, sculpture and painting--that mass of bright and sombre colour, of gold and silver threads, strung with pearls and glittering gems strangely broken by age--which tells the epic-lyric tale of civilisation. While we state that it is not our aim to make a point of fashion as such, some of our illustrations show contemporary woman as she appears in our homes, on our streets, at the play, in her garden, etc. We have taken examples of women's costumes which are pre-eminently characteristic of the moment in which we write, and as we believe, illustrate those laws upon which we base our deductions concerning woman as decoration. These laws are: appropriateness of he
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