anufacturing or mercantile enterprise can
be profitably conducted by a deputation of mandarins.

Chang is rapidly changing the aspect of his capital by erecting
in all parts of it handsome school-buildings in foreign style,
literally proclaiming from the house-tops his gospel of education.
The youth in these schools are mostly clad in foreign dress; his
street police and the soldiers in his barracks are all in foreign
uniform; and many of the latter have cut off their cues as a sign
of breaking with the old regime. In talking with their officers I
applauded the prudence of the measure as making them less liable
to be captured while running away.

Chang's soldiers are taught to march to the cadence of his own
war-songs--which, though lacking the fire of Tyrtaeus or Koerner,
are not ill-suited to arouse patriotic sentiment. Take these lines
as a sample:

"Foreigners laugh at our impotence,
And talk of dividing our country like a watermelon,
But are we not 400 million strong?
If we of the Yellow Race only stand together,
What foreign power will dare to molest us?
Just look at India, great in extent
But sunk in hopeless bondage.
Look, too, at the Jews, famous in ancient times,
Now scattered on the face of the earth.
Then look at Japan with her three small islands,
Think how she got the better of this great nation,
And won the admiration of the world.
What I admire in the Japanese
Is not their skill in using ship or gun
But their single-hearted love of country."

[Page 233]
Viceroy Chang's mode of dealing with his own malady might be taken
as a picture of the shifting policy of a half-enlightened country.

The first doctor he consulted was a Chinese of the old school. Besides
administering pills composed of

"Eye of newt, and toe of frog,
Wool of bat, and tongue of dog,"

the doctor suggested that one thing was still required to put the
patient in harmony with the course of Nature. Pointing to a fine
chain of hills that stretches in a waving line across the wide city,
he said: "The root of your trouble lies there. That carriage-road
that you have opened has wounded the spinal column of the serpent.
Restore the hill to its former condition and you will soon get
well."

The viceroy filled the gap incontinently, but found himself no
better. He then sent for English and American doctors--dismissing
them in turn to make way for a Japanese who had him in charge when
I left Wuchan