in various ways, that the number
remaining was insufficient to mount the men. One or two companies, and
portions of others, were compelled to march on foot. We were visited
during the forenoon by Mr. Sparks, an American, Dr. Den, an Irishman,
and Mr. Burton, another American, residents of Santa Barbara. They had
been suffered by the Californians to remain in the place. Their
information communicated to us was, that the town was deserted of
nearly all its population. A few houses only were occupied. Passing
down a beautiful and fertile undulating plain, we encamped just before
sunset in a live-oak grove, about half a mile from the town of Santa
Barbara. Strict orders were issued by Col. Fremont, that the property
and the persons of Californians, not found in arms, should be sacredly
respected. To prevent all collisions, no soldier was allowed to pass
the lines of the camp without special permission, or orders from his
officers.

I visited the town before dark, but found the houses, with few
exceptions, closed, and the streets deserted. After hunting about some
time, we discovered a miserable dwelling, occupied by a shoemaker and
his family, open. Entering it, we were very kindly received by its
occupants, who, with a princely supply of civility, possessed but a
beggarly array of comforts. At our request they provided for us a
supper of _tortillas, frijoles_, and stewed _carne_ seasoned with
_chile colorado_, for which, paying them _dos pesos_ for four, we bade
them good evening, all parties being well satisfied. The family
consisted, exclusive of the shoemaker, of a dozen women and children,
of all ages. The women, from the accounts they had received of the
intentions of the Americans, were evidently unprepared for civil
treatment from them. They expected to be dealt with in a very barbarous
manner, _in all respects_; but they were disappointed, and invited us
to visit them again. Distance 8 miles.

CHAPTER XI.

Santa Barbara
Picturesque situation
Fertility of the country
Climate
Population
Society
Leave Santa Barbara
Rincon
Grampus
Mission of St. Buenaventura
Fine gardens
Meet a party of mounted Californians
They retreat before us
Abundance of maize
Arrival of couriers from Com. Stockton
Effects of war upon the country
More of the enemy in sight
News of the capture of Los Angeles, by Gen. Kearny and Com. Stockton
Mission of San Fernando
The Maguey
Capitul