we commenced ascending the Lebanon. We had slept just
below the snow-line, for the long hollows with which the ridge is cloven
were filled up to within a short distance of the glen, out of which we
came. The path was very steep, continually ascending, now around the
barren shoulder of the mountain, now up some ravine, where the holly and
olive still flourished, and the wild rhubarb-plant spread its large,
succulent leaves over the soil. We had taken a guide, the day before, at
the village of Dayr el-Ahmar, but as the way was plain before us, and he
demanded an exorbitant sum, we dismissed him, We had not climbed far,
however, before he returned, professing to be content with whatever we
might give him, and took us into another road, the first, he said, being
impracticable. Up and up we toiled, and the long hollows of snow lay below
us, and the wind came cold from the topmost peaks, which began to show
near at hand. But now the road, as we had surmised, turned towards that we
had first taken, and on reaching the next height we saw the latter at a
short distance from us. It was not only a better, but a shorter road, the
rascal of a guide having led us out of it in order to give the greater
effect to his services. In order to return to it, as was necessary, there
were several dangerous snow-fields to be passed. The angle of their
descent was so great that a single false step would have hurled our
animals, baggage and all, many hundred feet below. The snow was melting,
and the crust frozen over the streams below was so thin in places that the
animals broke through and sank to their bellies.

It were needless to state the number and character of the anathemas
bestowed upon the guide. The impassive Dervish raved; Mustapha stormed;
Francois broke out in a frightful eruption of Greek and Turkish oaths, and
the two travellers, though not (as I hope and believe) profanely inclined,
could not avoid using a few terse Saxon expressions. When the general
indignation had found vent, the men went to work, and by taking each
animal separately, succeeded, at imminent hazard, in getting them all
over the snow. We then dismissed the guide, who, far from being abashed by
the discovery of his trickery, had the impudence to follow us for some
time, claiming his pay. A few more steep pulls, over deep beds of snow and
patches of barren stone, and at length the summit ridge--a sharp, white
wall, shining against the intense black-blue of the zenit